One thing that is bothering me is the intermittent rough idle this N55 engine has but nothing visible on the RPM indicator. Previously had E39 i and E60 i but both of them had smooth idle. Any thoughts? Are N55 known for this? Thank you in advance. I have 81k miles.RPM Rough Idle, Vibrating & Shaking Problem BMW 5 Series 3 Series E90 E39 528I 328I M5 M3
I am going to the dealer today. I read about other N55 engines having the same issue and owners said re-flashing solved the issue. Will update after the visit to the dealer. At Second Vehicle Inspection interval per iDriveroughly around 60k BMW service bulletin recommends to have Injectors Cleaned due to carbon build up from direct injection design and Spark Plugs replaced. If I were you I would follow the recommendation from bmwe39lover and replace Spark Plugs after running a full tank of gas after putting additives.
If still idles rough, perform injection cleaning per BMW Service. Good Luck. I was just recently at the dealer for rough idle and had my spark plugs replaced and fuel injection service performed. It seem to smooth things out. I am at 65k miles and this is BMW service recommendation. They also found a intake hose was leaking and replaced it, not sure if that also contributed to the rough idle. I saw the dealership yesterday, the SA did his best to explain me these cars are very sophisticated He did not say that intermittent pulsing or rough idle is normal but reiterated the idea with sophisticated cars, he also told me there are about forty computers that control this car No faulty codes were found, except a warn out battery which I got replaced on the same visit.
I still get the pulsing idle and what I am going to do next is to follow bmwe39lover's advice. I would change out the spark plugs if I were you.
The schedule maint recommends they get replaced at 60k miles. I also have a and just recently did this. Huge improvement! I will definetly consider this. Thanks a lot! Mine with a little under 60K miles didn't get rough idle. It when right into drivetrain malfunction.
I replaced all sparkplugs and fuel injectors. Running smooth again. If not, cancel; find good Indy. Aw dang. OP was in April. My bad. Had to drop it back off this morning. Has any one experienced this and if so how did the dealer handle this? What is it about F10 and Drive Train Malfunctions?Remember Me? When starting my car in the morning everything runs fine.
When i goto lunch around car is parked outside in the sun Appreciate 0. Yes, my car does this. My dealer says it's normal due to "hot air in the intake tract, between the MAF and the throttle".
I call Bullfeathers on this one. I ran a Volvo V70R with a tune that was running much more boost than this car, and it never did any of that crap, even stock. Bringing it back in for other issues, will have them look at this again. Originally Posted by Evili. Private First Class. My car does this too and dealer said "could not duplicate" Originally Posted by Needsdecaf. Originally Posted by ghueser. My RPM does not go up but more often than not, my cooling fan goes to a very high speed for a few seconds and sounds really loud.
After 5 to 10 seconds it then goes back down to where I can't really hear it. Yes, mine has done this once out of only about 5 start-ups so far. Glad to hear it isn't just me!
Yes, I have this same rpm issue but not with every start. It is very annoying and I had dealer check it out last week. They said they noticed it however car is operating as designed. I think that is BS! I never noticed this problem until after they performed softward update for steering issue. Lieutenant Colonel. This is most likely completely normal.
You are still dealing with a mechanical device. The engine management system is permitted to tweak the engine during idle as a means to stabilize the engine or otherwise manage excessive emissions.
Now, if you throw it into gear during this time and the engine stutters or acts strange then you may have a valid complaint. But, idle management routines that fluctuate engine rpm are typically under control of the computer.
You will see similar throttle activity during idle when the engine is cold and when the engine executes some break in logic. Again, next time this occurs throw it immediately into gear and you will see that vehicle drive performance remains virtually unaffected.Remember Me? I have the same occurring on my '08, it runs rough on cold startups to the point where if I get moving right away the car will hesitate when I press the accelerator making the car jump around, I have to depress the clutch to stop the hesitation, it lasts a couple of minutes and then it is fine I guess I will say something next time I bring it into the dealer since my issue seems to be tied to this SB.
Originally Posted by guarnibl. They diagnosed mine as the thermostat giving incorrect readings. That actually may be the case for part of the problem -- I mostly noticed that it didn't start happening until I reached mid temperatures.
But I dunno I was supposed to get my car back on Monday. Come Thursday and they still haven't called me saying it's done. Appreciate 0. Private First Class. Originally Posted by Babaganush. Anyone familiar with this service bulletin?
My car is in the shop and I'm being told that the problem is associated with this bulletin. The service bulletin states that the stalling, rough idle and check engine light I am experiencing are caused by a faulty intake hose which needs to be replaced.
My fear is that my wait for these parts may not solve my problem since the technician never confirmed that the hose was faulty First Lieutenant. Baba, let us know what they did and if you feel a difference in power. Originally Posted by Eliminator. I'll do a little work myself and see if there is any debris in the hoses, check ground and power and re-assemble. Thanks for the update! Lieutenant Colonel. I have the same problem. On cold start-ups, the idle runs rough and the car throws faults Ie.
I turn the car off and re-start and all is well Do you guys get the array of faults? Dealer diagnosed my problem and the Idle Actuator from the Computer read out.
I want to check my hoses myself, can Rovman explain the procedure for getting to the actuator? Any pics of the idle control valve and hoses in the engine bay?? Got the same today DSC failure. I have been experiencing a rough start for more than a month the car starts then almost stalls I took it to the dealer 2 weeks ago and they couldn't find any thing Any clue what that is? Thx the car is with miles Quote:. Originally Posted by Dascamel. Eh, add me to the list Exact same problem, taking the car in.
Brigadier General. My car is starting to idle rough, and only have 1, miles.My i has the odd misfire when cold which either disappears of its own accord or if I stop and restart the car. Haven't looked at ignition coils yet but I've had misfires on cylinders 3, 7 and 8. Should be easy enough to swap the coil packs around and re read codes to determine if it is the coils.
The valvetronic works the whole time as that is how the throttle is applied to this engine. If it is the valvetronic, the fix involves replacing the idler arms but if that isn't something you fancy I have also read that adjusting the minimum lift for the valvetronic from 0. Could be air temp.
If there is an issue with your MAF, it might struggle to recognise that the air temp is very low thus the air is denser and not adjust the fuel mixture accordingly. Part of the issue is I have no fault codes stored thank you BMW!!! To clarify, when I switch on, she runs fine, idling at rpm for about 2 minutes. She'll pull off lovely and act like everything's ok, regardless of what the outside temperature is.
However, after I've driven down the road a bit, and when I'm sitting at traffic lights or waiting at a roundabout, she'll cough, splutter and the idle will wobble around rpm, just above stalling. It's almost like, on turn on, the choke kicks in so it runs fine but then, after a couple of minutes, it's like either the choke has automatically stopped in which case it's starving the engine of fuel or that the choke is stuck on in which case, it's flooding the engine.
At the moment, I'm switching her on, letting her run for 10 minutes, switching her off and then starting off. It still comes up with an engine malfunction code after a minute but at least she doesn't splutter and cough as much. I was going to see if it was an ECU fault but haven't done that yet.
Does that even sound like it could be feasible? I don't think chokes exist anymore, the engine ECU will vary the mixture depending on the input it gets from the various sensors. I think you need to take a more methodical approach and rule out things one by one to narrow this down. As you've mentioned it's when its cold after a short amount of time is the issue.
Then you need to work on a component by component basis to make sure they're running ok. Electric throttle-valve actuator The DME control unit calculates the position of the throttle valve: from the position of the accelerator pedal and the torque required by other control units.
In the electric throttle-valve actuator, the position of the throttle valve is monitored by 2 potentiometers. The electric throttle-valve actuator is electrically opened or closed by the DME control unit. I know from a cold start mine will idle at 1k for maybe 20 seconds, then ish for maybe 2 minutes before dropping to Failure of either can allow unmetered air into manifold and cause unsteady idle.
BMW 535i xDrive Car idle is rough Inspection at your home or office.
Interesting about your idle speeds, mine would idle cold at rpm for only really a few seconds, possibly 30 max then very quickly drop to rpm and stay at rpm each and every time it idled. My F10 idles much higher on initial start k up then drops in stages to rpm I think. It's very different to my E60 as it was bang on each and every time. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!As the first wave of BMW 5-series E60s reaches an automotive geriatric age of 15 years old, parts begin to wear out and our beloved bimmers start to lose their once silky sweet engine performance.
One of the most frequent performance issues plaguing the older six cylinder BMW M54 engines is a rough or fluctuating idle.
Does the engine rpm in your car repeatedly drop and then recover when idling at a stop? Are you noticing fluctuations in your rpms when holding the accelerator at a constant speed? Is your car idling rough or experiencing a loss of power when you depress the accelerator pedal? If you are experiencing any of these rough idle issues, there are a couple of quick rough idle repairs that can get your bimmer performing like new again.
There are two parts that are common contributing factors to a rough idling M54 engine: the DISA valve also known as the intake air adjustment valveand the idle control valve. The DISA valve is located on the top left side of the intake manifold. This intake tuning is done with the use of a flap, which redirects air within the intake manifold in order to achieve optimal flow into the cylinders.
The idle control valve on the BMW six cylinder engine is also located on the left side of the intake manifold, just below the DISA valve. It also supplies air to the engine when you take your foot off of the accelerator at higher RPMs. Common signs of a failing idle control valve are fluctuations in the idle speed, and near stalling conditions when the foot is abruptly removed from the accelerator at a higher RPM.
Since both parts have a maximum life span of approximatelymiles, if one is failing most likely the other is ready to go as well. Do yourself a favor and spend the extra money and replace both parts.
A failed DISA valve can actually come apart, ejecting plastic parts into the cylinder head and destroying an engine. Idle control valve required — The following kit includes valve, grommet and rubber mount. Intake boot optional — Is your intake boot getting old and brittle? Now is a great time to replace your intake boot while you have it removed for this repair. The air filter must clean gallons of air for each gallon of gasoline burned inside the engine, without restricting the air intake.
A clogged air filter is also a cause of a rough idle. Replace yours now while doing this repair! Follow the above steps in reverse for reassembly with the new parts. Note that the new grommet is notched — match the notch up with the tab in the intake manifold to ensure correct positioning during reassembly. We suggest coating the inside of the grommet with a little dilithium grease to help with insertion of the idle control valve. Make sure all of your hoses fit tight and hose clamps are securely fastened.
And congratulations for Doing It Yourself! The Repair Cost graphically displays approximately how expensive the repair will be to perform. Please note that these cost estimates are approximate and can fluctuate based on brand preferences and manufacturer.
BMW E Share on Facebook. To see other repairs on our site using this actual car, please click on the image below!I've been reading lots about rough idles on the i but haven't found a definitive answer or same set of circumstances. I have a i,k on the clock. It runs lovely, lots of power and very smooth.
In the mornings, it runs like there's an error in the fuel mix. It stays at about rpm and is close to cutting out, as if it's running on 7 cylinders. So, it's just rough when cold. Could it be a sensor or something, giving the wrong readings so getting the fuel mix wrong, up until it comes up to a standard running temperature?
It doesn't give any error codes, but it comes up with Engine Malfunction. Other possibilities guessing here could be an air leak in the inlet somewhere, causing mixture too lean when cold instead when richer is required.
Or maybe a sticky idle control valve but that can resolve if you jab the throttle. The temperature reading can be monitored with some push button magic and summing the end of the VIN number. Secondary air pump? When I had my E39 i M52 engine I think it used to run rough whilst coming of choke on cold starts and if I switched it off and back on again it would be fine.
Mine was diagnosed as a sticky lifter. On the odd occasion when it did not run rough on a cold start you could clearly hear the gap tap. Local Indy couldn't help but nice friendly BMW dealer found it after a bit of head scratching. Part replaced on mine was But mine would run fine when cold and only fault with engine malfunction when warm.
BMW E60 Rough Idle Repair – 2004-2010 5 Series – M54 6 Cylinder
Thunder2how is your engine for oil leaks? I think the oil's good. Sorry, I'm not that mechanically minded but there was an air leak from the rocket cover gaskets so the rocker covers and gaskets were both replaced. It didn't fix the problem. If it's the valvetronics, it sounds like a big job? Now, she starts and runs fine with no problems when cold. There might still be an issue elsewhere but the richer mix and higher fuel usage is making the car run great.
I've ordered a new sensor afterwards, I figured I should have cleaned the old one first! Hopefully it'll sort the issue. If not, the issue could be elsewhere.Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM. Average rating from customers who received a Car idle is rough Inspection. Learn More. A rough idling engine can be caused by a number of issues, some of them are serious while others tend to be minor, but the symptoms remain pretty much the same.
The car will feel rough and bouncy when the engine is running. The car will also idle below its regular speed, display inconsistent RPMs and may produce a shaking, skipping or slipping sound when the vehicle is running. While a rough idling engine may seem to be a simple inconvenience it often indicates a deeper problem within the engine. The vehicle should be inspected and repaired as soon as possible because small problems have a way of turning into expensive repairs.
The idle speed of an engine is basically the rotational speed the engine runs on when it is un-coupled from the drivetrain and the throttle pedal is not being depressed. The idle speed is measured in the revolutions per minute of the crankshaft.
When an engine is running at idle speed it generates enough power to smoothly operate equipment such as the water pump, alternator, and power steering but not enough power to move the vehicle itself. A properly functioning idle should run smoothly without skipping or slipping. A clogged or failing fuel injector creates a lack of fuel in the vehicle's engine. This can cause a rough idle, it can also cause symptoms such as slow acceleration or the car not feeling as if it has enough power.
If the problem is addressed early, it is possible to clean the injectors, which will restore them to full function. If this condition is not addressed in a timely manner the injectors will need to be replaced. Incorrect Idle Speed: While the average idle speed falls between to 1, RPMs, if your vehicle is experiencing a rough idle it could be due to an incorrect idle speed setting. A trained mechanic can easily adjust the idle speed, and it should stay at the proper speed.
If an adjusted idle speed becomes inconsistent or changes at random intervals there may be a bigger problem that needs to be explored. This can lead to a rough idle and if the problem is not addressed the car may experience slow acceleration and a lack of power. Vacuum leaks should be inspected and repaired immediately. Incorrectly Installed or Damaged Plugs: Spark plugs are responsible for creating the spark that allows the vehicle to burn fuel.
If spark plugs are improperly installed or malfunctioning, the idle speed can be affected. The vehicle's engine may vibrate or there may be slipping or straining sounds coming from the engine. Defective or Clogged Fuel Pump: A rough idle can be related to fuel delivery issues. The fuel pump, which is responsible for pulling fuel from the gas tank to the fuel injectors, can become clogged or defective. If this happens the engine will not get enough fuel, which can cause a rough idle, sputtering, stalling and even slow acceleration.
Clogged Fuel Filter: A clogged fuel filter can cause similar problems.